Whenever life brings me to NYC’s west 30s, I happily make a detour for dumplings, wings, or barbecue. These are not just any snacks I stop for, though-they’re Korean dumplings, and Korean wings and Korean barbecue. That’s because in NYC, that cluster of blocks in the west 30s contains more than a smattering of Korean restaurants.
I go for the spice of gochujang, Korea’s best-known chile sauce, the ripe tanginess of kimchi, and the barbecue juices from just-grilled bulgogi.
The tastes of Korea are complex-fermentation and marinating are key techniques-which is why its dishes have never seemed the most accessible …