Author Archive

New York City’s {Indian} Emporium: Patel Grocery

Posted by on Thursday Jul 24th, 2014

At Big Girls, Small Kitchen, we love to cook at home. To equip ourselves to cook any cuisine in the world in the confines of our small kitchens, we’re sending contributor Lauren Rothman off to visit the Russian, Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, French, Greek , and Italian supermarkets of New York City. Her shopping expeditions will yield the specialty ingredients we need in order to delve deep into the kinds of cuisines we’re craving at home these days.

Up next, Patel Grocery, an Indian emporium of New York City, located in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. Here’s Lauren:

As a native New Yorker, I’ve always ranked my favorite neighborhoods according to how good their eats are. For that reason—never mind its handsome brownstones and lush eponymous park that affords a stunning view of Manhattan—Sunset Park, in south Brooklyn, has always topped my list. I love good food, but I love it even more when it’s cheap, and Sunset Park’s grub meets both criteria: un-fancy taco-and-cerveza joints line Fifth Avenue, their cumin-and-grilled-meat aromas wafting out of unpretentious storefronts; walk a little further east, down to Eighth Avenue, and the sights (and smells) change: Chinese lettering advertises the strip’s many noodle and dim sum joints. It’s hard to beat the area’s restaurant options, but I’ll let you in on a little secret: Sunset Park is a great destination for the home cook, too.

“Little Latin America” and “Brooklyn Chinatown” might be the area’s most well-known sub-neighborhoods, but Sunset Park is also home to a sizeable Gujarati Indian population, and when I feel like stirring up some delicate curries I head to Patel Grocery, which opened on Fourth Avenue just steps from the 53rd Street subway station in 1981. Inside a tiny, somewhat haphazard but well-stocked store, owner Ishwer Patel sells all the Indian ingredients a cook dreams of, from the dozens of “pulses” (legumes) that are the main ingredient in Indian dhals and porridges to well-curated ground and whole spices to fresh produce such as gingerroot, curry leaves and bitter melon.

On a recent visit, my shopping list included paneer, the squeaky fresh cheese indispensable for paneer bhurji or saag paneer, or stewed spinach and cheese; black mustard seeds, tamarind paste and curry leaves, which I use in a variety of Indian dishes; some kind of dried legume; and kulfi, or Indian-style ice cream, for dessert. I knew from previous shopping trips that I’d find everything with ease, so I lingered in my favorite aisle of the store, where Patel stocks its pulses and spices. Hoping to score something unusual, I zeroed in on two of the store’s more vibrant legume offerings, opting for a bag of bright-green dried chickpeas (“you cook them just the same,” Ishwer’s wife volunteered) and similarly grassy-colored mung beans, which resembled tiny beads. Browsing the spice selection, I remembered that I needed asafoetida, the funky-tasting dried, ground resin of a perennial herb that in small quantities lends a leek-like flavor to dishes such as the aforementioned saag paneer.

Patel’s prices are low, low, low—before I knew it, my basket was full of $3-per-bag legumes, a $4 chunk of paneer and a 59-cent nub of fresh ginger, and it was time to hop back on the R train and head home.

Eggy Zucchini Bake

Posted by on Monday Jul 21st, 2014

Well, look what we have here. An old Pyrex pan. A brownish green square. The most delicious thing you’ve ever eaten (or so says Alex).

A few years ago, I got into the habit of turning leftover rice into this gratin, a recipe saved from an old Splendid Table newsletter. I wouldn’t say this was a frequent habit, but every six months, when there was leftover rice and not much else, I’d whip up a few eggs, shred some cheese, sauté whatever was green that I could find, and scrape the batter into a baking pan. Each time, I’d scoff: “Well, this is a humble one.” And each time, Alex would take his first bite and tell me: “You could make this every night.” He loves that dish.

By the third or fourth instance of our evenings playing out exactly like the above, I realized that the leftover had risen above leftover status. I’d have to figure out how to make the eggy, cheesy vegetable-laden (four whole zucchini go in!) dish intentionally.

Four odd years later, I got around to it, and I owe this welcome update to the the jar of fresh breadcrumbs caught my eye. I more or less collect heels and nubs and stale crusts of bread in the back of the fridge, and one day, fed up with all the separately wrapped and very hard pieces, I made a lifetime’s worth of breadcrumbs in my blender. Now I have a jar of fresh breadcrumbs that’s a lot less painful to behold–and the inspiration for this simple dinner.

With vegetable-rice gratin in mind and breadcrumbs in the jar, I updated that old gratin recipe into this easy, healthful bake. Besides making Alex a really happy guy, there are a lot of uses for this. You can cut small squares and pack them as protein-rich snacks. A bigger piece, cold, would be excellent between two slices of focaccia, like a frittata sandwich. And because this has eggs, bread, vegetables, and cheese, I think you could make the argument that it is viable as breakfast, lunch, or dinner–or all three.

Mixed Berry Frozen Lemonade

Posted by on Wednesday Jul 16th, 2014

Natalie of Good Girl Style is back today with an afternoon refreshment that’ll make light of the heaviest humidity. Part sweet, part drink, these slushie-like lemonades are unbeatable in the heat. Natalie joins us each month to share incredible desserts with Big Girls, Small Kitchen readers–desserts that are entirely gluten-free, but not like obviously gluten-free. That means no specialty flours or hard-to-find ingredients, just good old-fashioned butter, sugar, fruit, and lemons. Don’t miss her other frozen posts, about Coffee Granita and Easy Mango Sorbet with Coconut Cream.

On a hot summer day, little is more refreshing than an ice cold lemonade. Unless that lemonade is actually blended with ice to make it a slushie, and topped with berry compote for the perfect blend of sweet and sour. You’ll definitely want to take the time to squeeze the lemons yourself. Bottled lemon juice is convenient but it may leave a bitter or metallic taste…not so refreshing!

Go ahead and juice the lemons when you have time and the juice will keep in a mason jar with a lid in the refrigerator for a week or so. The simple syrup can also be made ahead and kept in the refrigerator. Add ice–and this drink comes together in a flash. Of course the frozen lemonade can be served alone, but the berries add a nice color contrast and flavor mix. Use whatever berries you have handy. I used strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries.

Som Tam-Style Broccoli

Posted by on Monday Jul 14th, 2014

On our last night in Thailand, we crashed at a hotel a few minutes from the airport. Not one to allow my final Thai meal to be a tasteless hotel pizza, I convinced Alex to venture back out to the Bangkok streets, ignoring that our flight out left in a couple of hours. I was sure I’d seen, and smelled, a stall serving something good and cheap on our winding taxi ride over.

We pointed to the larb-like substance that the vendor was frying up for the customer ahead of us. Two, we motioned. And rice.

We sat at picnic tables lit with florescent bulbs, waiting for the food. Mosquitoes ate our legs. The dogs at the table next to us barked viciously. We felt like interlopers. Two weeks in country hadn’t made us any more comfortable ordering food whose names we couldn’t decipher, and though when our larb was ready, we tried to embrace the adventure of eating it, we failed at that too. Thai food is as much about blood sausage and tripe as it is about the sugar-lime contrast of Pad Thai noodles or the chili-lemongrass spice of a bowl of curry (follow Andy Ricker of Pok Pok on Instagram if you want to really have this hammered in). And our larb had a whole lot of tripe…or something. Those 14 days of traveling proved not enough time to learn  to enjoy a plate of mysterious Thai street meat either (the flavor was good, admittedly, and we spooned some of the sauce over our rice and ate that to preserve some dignity). We walked back to the hotel, scratching our mosquito bites, and we asked for pizzas in the hotel lobby.

Of course, we had eaten a lot of great food on the trip, much of it adventurous. As a bookend to the larb-stand disaster, on our first night in Bangkok, we had the most incredible meal. After a blurry day spent pointing at potentially tasty market delicacies (some good, some odd), we fought jet lag and went out for dinner to a place Rivka had recommended, called Soul Food. We ordered as per Rivka’s rec too, a plate of yam som-o, pomelo salad. I wondered if, after the markets, we’d find the food at this restaurant, with its English menu, authentic enough. Naturally, the meal was one of the most delicious ones we ate.

After that first bite of yam som-o, I sought the dish on menus everywhere. If it wasn’t listed, we ordered som tam, papaya salad with a similar set of flavors, instead. And in fact there were lots of salads and dishes that showed off the puckery, hot, and sweet combination of flavors as yam som-o and som tam, a likeable trio that followed us back to our kitchen and appears with a good bit of frequency, especially when I have quantities of extra vegetables lying around.

Toasted Almond & Cherry Custard Pie

Posted by on Thursday Jul 10th, 2014

Well, if we’re going on a cherry binge, we’re going to have to pair bunches of them with almonds.

They’re related, cherries and almonds, and that’s why their flavors complement each other so, so perfectly. In truth, I am not normally a pie person, but I make an exception for custardy pies, like lemon and shoofly, and especially for almond-y custard pies like this Toasted Almond & Cherry Custard Pie.

To make the almond-kissed dairy-free custard in this pie, I take inspiration from one of my all-time favorite summer desserts, the clafoutis. In a clafoutis, a small amount of flour added to the custard prevents the eggs from curdling. That means you don’t have to be a pie whisperer to win at this custard pie. You don’t have to be careful or precise, at all.

Almond Breeze Almond Milk jumpstarts the almond flavor; both almond extract and sliced almonds pump up the taste even more. (See all my Almond Breeze recipes here.)

Likewise, the crust: it’s press in! I know a lot of people detest rolling out pie dough, and hopefully there are quarter-lifers among you who don’t even own a rolling pin (hopefully, because I think that it’s sort of something to be proud of…minimalism and whatnot). No matter. Here, after moistening flour with oil and more almond milk, simply press the crust into your pan. It’s okay if the edges are a little rough.

Into that easy-to-make shell go pitted cherries and this famous almond custard–then, sliced almonds are sprinkled on top.

There is a similar pie in A Baker’s Dairy-Free Dozen–only that one’s made with coconut. Don’t miss either!

Open-Faced Avocado & Red Pesto Sandwich

Posted by on Monday Jul 7th, 2014

This weekend, we made and ate a lot of food, as I hope you did too. Dinners involved grilled steak, pulled pork sandwiches, and mac ‘n cheese. For breakfast, we cooked doughboys, biscuit dough squeezed onto s’mores sticks and roasted over a fire, then stuffed with butter and strawberry jam. At lunch, we made sandwich after sandwich. There were so many fillings and spreads at hand that sandwich-making inevitably turned into a game show.

That’s fine by me. I’m competitive, and sandwich making is an art worthy of judgement. The right proportions are part of the championship formula, as are the right mix of textures. At the very least, you’ll want some spicy or pungent ingredients, and some that are more mild. When a sandwich errs on the side of too mild, I reach for the sun-dried tomatoes, which deliver a serious punch to creamy components like mozzarella or avocado.

And so when Carly, whom you know from taking the beautiful photos herehere, and here, told me about an open-faced sandwich she loved that featured mild avocado and bright sun-dried tomato pesto, I couldn’t wait to get the post and photos up on the site. Here’s what Carly says about this delicious five-ingredient number:

This sandwich was born out of a moment when, scouring the cupboards in a moment of hunger, something random came together and worked. Really worked. A friend had introduced me to a similar sandwich, with cottage cheese and avocado slices, but being without cottage cheese, I put together this alternative, which has now surpassed the original. A bold red pesto complements the creaminess of a well-ripened avocado creating a rich, satisfying flavor.


Have a five-ingredient sandwich you adore? Tell me in the comments, and I’ll add it to the repertoire. See the first two posts in the series here.

Easy Mango Sorbet with Coconut Cream

Posted by on Wednesday Jul 2nd, 2014

Natalie of Good Girl Style is back today with a dessert I hope you’ll consider making for any July 4th festivities. Why? Because her instructions provide a genius way of crafting sorbet without an ice cream maker and  whipping up “cream” without any dairy. Wow. Natalie joins us each month to share incredible desserts with Big Girls, Small Kitchen readers–desserts that are entirely gluten-free, but not like obviously gluten-free. That means no specialty flours or hard-to-find ingredients, just good old-fashioned butter, sugar, chocolate, and fruit. Don’t miss her most recent posts, about Lemon Bars and Mini Rhubarb Cheesecake Pots.

gluten free mango sorbet dessert

Mango is one of my favorite tropical flavors. It pairs magically with coconut and lime (and cardamom!), making this creamy treat utterly refreshing on a hot day. The color is so intense and cheerful. Design-wise, I love it paired with the freshness of jadeite glass dishes. The recipe can be made any number of times (do each batch separately in the blender) and frozen in a deeper metal pan to make enough to feed a crowd. Adjust the sugar once you’ve gauged the sweetness of your mangos (if you had beautifully ripe mangos you froze yourself you’ll need less than a bag of supermarket frozen fruit may require).

The brilliant topping, coconut cream, basically comes straight from a can of coconut milk. It’s kind of miraculous. So you don’t get lost at the store, remember that coconut milk is usually found in the Asian cooking aisle of the supermarket. Don’t grab coconut water instead: it won’t work! If you can’t find it, you can use regular whipped cream and flavor it with coconut extract.

Lastly, dipping your ice cream scoop in hot water will make beautiful scoops every time. For garnish, a sprinkle of shredded coconut and a dash of extra lime zest make this dessert extra pretty for guests.