I’ve been thinking a lot about summer, ever since the first warm day lifted my spirits a few weeks ago. I’ve also been thinking about our seasonal amnesia, though, where we can’t quite remember what we used to do and eat (and wear!) in seasons beside the one we’re currently in. Does that happen to you?
And so, in trying to come up with a dessert that would delight us all, all summer long, I had to really sit back and think. I scratched my head. I drank some chocolate milk. I curled up in the chair in our bedroom, whose excessive and uncontrollable heat resembles the weather in the tropics.
And then, in my mind, I went to Mexico. Oaxaca, circa 2002. It was hot. After a morning at the market, eating fried squash flowers, my family and I followed Susana Trilling, author of Seasons of My Heart, to her house, for a cooking class. I remember toasting pumpkin seeds on the comal and making mole from them. And I remember a mango trifle that ended the meal in the most delicious, abundant, surprising fashion. I hadn’t expected to see something as British as a trifle appear in the Mexican countryside.